“Indy” (our “new to us” RV) picks up where we left off … Day 3 of last September’s cross country trek returning from Indiana. After miles and miles of farm lands coming across South Dakota, we rolled into Badlands National Park. It was our first time in both the state and the park and we didn’t really know what to expect. As we turned south off of I-90 we followed SR 240 to the north east entrance. At a distance, the terrain looked fairly unassuming. In the span of just a few miles we found the rolling grasslands dropping away to an other-worldly landscape of rocky pyramids, pillars, knife edge ridges and narrow canyons. The drive through the north east section of the Badlands Wall during the late afternoon was truly breathtaking. Frank Lloyd Wright captured it best:
“I was totally unprepared for the revelation called the Dakota Bad Lands. What I saw gave me an indescribable sense of mysterious elsewhere – a distant architecture … ethereal – an endless supernatural world more spiritual than earth by created out of it.” – Frank Lloyd Wright
Table of Contents
Cedar Pass Campground
After a twenty minute drive up and down the amazing “forest of rocks”, we descended into the open plain and the Cedar Pass Campground. We had reserved a site with electrical hook ups on the end of the loop close to the entrance. I had tried to pick a site with the great view of the “Wall” and it exceeded my hopes.
All of the campsites were arranged in two loops, both of which encircled an open grassy area. Each site had its own picnic table with a small shelter over the table. Unlike other campgrounds that arrange the sites parallel to each other, the Cedar Pass layout had them set end to end with a nice amount of space in between each spot. In no time we were settled in to enjoy the golden hour and sunset on the Wall. We studied the park map getting ready for our day of exploration.
Badlands National Park
Badlands National Park covers 244,000 acres of sharply eroded buttes, pinnacles and spires surrounded by the largest, protected, mixed grass prairie in the United States. The windworn peaks of the Wall run one hundred miles, forming a natural barrier ridge. The prairies, on both sides, comprise over 50% of the park, home to all kinds of wildlife. Bison, bighorn sheep, prairie dogs and pronghorns are just a few of the park residents. Badlands also has one of the largest accumulations of fossils in North America.
Before the Lakota tribe came to dominate the area, its ancient residents included mammoth hunters, nomadic tribes and the Arikara tribe. The Lakota called the area “mako sica” (land bad). As the French fur trappers started hunting in the area they also called it “les mauvaises terres a traverser”, meaning “the bad lands to cross”. It was only a matter of time before the trappers were followed by soldiers, miners, cattle farmers and homesteaders as the settlement efforts pushed westward.
Badlands Loop Road
We were up and out of our campground early, anxious to start exploring. To make sure we had gas and supplies we went back to the gas station and store just before the entrance, which also meant driving through some of the best sections of the Wall again. Once you are in the park heading south on SR 240, the first stop on the left is “Big Badlands Overlook.” It is a short, easy walk out to the viewing area. The sea of colorful rock strata is just a preview of what is to come.
The next few stops are the Door Trail, the Window Trail and the Notch Trail. Hiking through the rocks of the Wall is so much more powerful than driving by them. Even on a late September day it was still pretty hot out there, so comfortable shoes and water are recommended.
The next few miles are some of the most dramatic. As you summit and descend the ridge, the Ben Reifel Visitor Center will be on your left. Shortly after the center is the Cedar Pass Lodge and Restaurant and then the Cedar Pass Campground. The right turn to stay on Badlands Loop Road is before you reach the Campground.
A few miles further on the 240 is the Fossil Exhibit Trail… for such a short loop there is a ton of fossil information. There are more than ten overlooks as you continue driving, with frequent wildlife. At Pinnacles Overlook we parked Indy and decided it was time for lunch with a view. Having our own traveling restaurant sure comes in handy!
It was time to get back on the road to our next destination … Custer, South Dakota. The bison were out in full force to bid us farewell. Badlands National Park was so much more than we anticipated… something tells me that it is not quite done revealing itself to us yet.
Favorite Five – Things to Do in Badlands National Park
- Drive the 42 mile Badlands Loop Road.
While you could drive the loop in about an hour, there are many stops and overlooks, like the Big Badlands, Yellow Mounds and Pinnacles Overlook. Take your time and enjoy the wildlife.
2. Climb into the Badlands Wall.
The shorter established trails are the Window Trail, the Notch Trail and the Door Trail. There are also longer and back country hiking opportunities. Driving through the Wall is breathtaking, but pales in comparison to hiking out on the rocks.
3. Learn about the Badlands at the Ben Reifel Visitor Center
The Ben Reifel Visitor center has exhibits explaining the history of the park and the ancient island sea that once covered it as well as a fossil prep lab. The lab is where they work on the many fossils found in the Badlands. Visitors can watch a short 23 minute introductory movie, find out the ranger talk schedules and check out the gift shop.
4. Walk the Fossil Exhibit Trail.
The trail is a quarter mile loop lined with boards describing the history of many of the fossils found at Badlands National Park – one of the world’s richest fossil beds. The fossils discovered here allow scientists to study the evolution of mammal species such as the horse, the rhino and the saber tooth cats. Don’t expect dinosaur fossils, though, as this area was under an ocean during the dinosaur age.
5. Enjoy the sunset or sunrise on the Wall.
Centuries dissolve during the vibrant golden hour and peaceful blue hour. The play of shadow and light not only showcase the colorful rock strata and the dramatic views of the Wall, but also evoke a unique ethereal solitude.
Things to know visiting the Badlands
- When to visit Badlands National Park.
The best time to visit Badlands National Park is the spring (mid-April through May) and the fall (September through early October). The summers can be very hot and humid with temperatures over 100 degrees and occasional violent thunderstorms. The winters are extremely cold with temperatures well below freezing, and the in-park accomodations and dining venues are closed during the winter months.
- Where to stay to visit Badlands National Park.
The lodging options in Badlands National Park are much more limited than other national parks. There is one lodge in the park, the Cedar Pass Lodge,. It has rustic cabins and an adjacent RV and tent campground. A few options are located in the small city of Wall, with the closest larger city being Rapid City, over an hour away.
- How to get to Badlands National Park.
Badlands National Park is located in the southwestern area of South Dakota. It is easily accessible by vehicle either on S. Dak. 44 east of Rapid City, or off I-90 at Wall or Cactus Flat. Westbound I-90 travelers take exit 131 south (Cactus Flat) onto S. Dak. 240 into the northeast entrance. The loop will return to the I-90 at exit 110. Eastbound travelers can take exit 110 (Wall) and travel the loop in reverse, exiting at Cactus Flat. The nearest airport is Rapid City Regional Airport, which is 10 miles southeast of Rapid City on S. Dak. 44.
Next we head to the Black Hills, the Mt. Rushmore National Memorial and Custer State Park in South Dakota. Find our first installment of Indy’s adventures here: RV Adventures #1 – On The Road – Anywhere We Wander
Subscribe to wander with us at www.anywherewewander.com.
Very cool write up of an interesting park . Nice pics of some good looking people and other animals. Keep it up.
It is a must take trip! In fact, I must take it again with my beautiful tour guide!!!!! See you there
Awesome! Great pics! On my list now. Thanks for sharing💗 v
Loved the Badlands when I was a kid – one of the routes we took on our way to Casper Wyoming. Thanks for the memories!! Great read!
Hadn’t thought about visiting Bad Lands area but after reading about your trip and looking at the video and pictures it’s now on my bucket list for sure!! Great job! Thank you!!!